"DYNASTAR" 2010 CRUISE
by John Rix

In 2010 our intention was to sail from Corfu, pass through the Corinth Canal, leave the Ionian Sea and explore the Greek Islands in the Agean.  This we achieved with some interesting experiences.

In Corfu we linked up with Richard & Carole Armstrong on "Singara", 42ft of ideal yacht for husband and wife cruising.  We also met up with Tony Demulder who gave us a conducted tour of his sailing yacht "Margaret Ann" 100ft long and 25ft beam which was more than a handful for a husband and wife team!

We had enjoyed the Adriatic and Ionian Seas in 2008 and 2009 and again in 2010 the sun shone.  On 23 June we proceeded south from Corfu with a following wind.  The wind freshened to 25 knots and we furled the big headsail and set the smaller inner staysail.  I was concerned, the sea was building and we were sailing towards a lee shore and a very tricky entrance to Levkas.  To be safe we diverted to the shelter of Preveza for the night. The following day the wind had eased and we made for Levkas and the Levkas canal.  The canal is interesting about three miles long and enormous salt flats at each side now being used as commercial rubbish dumps.  It will be many years before all the water disappears, meantime pelicans enjoy the area.  On 30June we transitted the Corinth Canal and contrary to the pilot book which suggested a wait of up to three hours we only had to dodge off for ten minutes before we were ordered to proceed and follow a tanker.  Transitting the canal was very impressive with its high sides.  On 3 July we arrived at the Olympic Marina which is about 40 kilometres from Athens.  I had made prior arrangements to stay at Olympic for the winter so visited the office to complete formalities and pay!  The cost was not helped by the 23% VAT in Greece.

Whilst mentioning 23% VAT, credit cards in Greece are a waste of time.  It's cash, cash, cash.  Whenever you produce a card it's the same response. "Machine broken down".  On the odd occasion you have a choice, there is a "surcharge" of roughly 23%! for a card transaction.  High taxation, low revenue return.  At least the harbour dues are either non existent or very cheap, but there again, there are few facilities such as electricity or toilets.  When we stayed overnight at the Zea Marina in Pireaus (which was not cheap) there was one gentlemen's toilet for 650 boats.  We did not swim in the marina!

The Olympic Marina was built for the Athens Games and whereas it has a massive hard standing for boat storage, the rest of the site is a collection of extremely large empty warehouses and workshops.  The restaurant has gone and so has the bank including the cash machine and all other facilities.  There is no village or town to help support the marina.  Only go there if you wish to stay on land.  Just north there is the excellent natural inlet of Rafti, some two miles deep and perfect for anchoring.  Also ashore there are restaurants and large supermarkets.

We were now ready to explore the Greek Islands in the Agean .  The conditions were not what we expected.  Generally northerly force 6 with one day at sea in force 9.  Very rough seas and I was pleased to be on a heavy displacement 50 footer.  The sailing in the Agean was not pleasant, there were very few yachts in evidence which told us that the conditions generally were not encouraging for sailing.  2010 was perhaps one of our poorer cruising experiences and in 2011 I think we shall quickly more to Turkey.  Apart from the foregoing we had the usual dramas, anchor fouling (twice), main engine overheating, generator not working, one of the toilets blocked solid, staysail furling gear jammed, outboard overheating  All expected problems for the cruising skipper to solve, which he did with some patience and the use of many non-engineering words!  Maybe we were unlucky but my advice is stick to the Ionian and Adriatic and leave the Agean to those who wish to fight the elements. 

"Dynastar" is a much converted Beneteau 500 clipper, built in 1991 of 17 tonnes, displacement of 50ft overall length cutter rigged with an 84 HP main engine and an 8 kilowatt generator.  The mainsail is slab reefing and all reefing gear, halyards and headsail furling gear are lead aft to the cockpit.

  John Rix, Skipper