Early in the year following a difficult time I decided to take a cruise in order to live my retirement. After some consideration and discussion I decided to return to Brittany mostly North Biscay with the aim (you have to have one) of seeing Paul Willis and Helen in La Rochelle. A splendid cruising ground last visited some 20 years ago. Inez Thompson agreed to accompany me, Brittany was new to her.

Now, my boat Pentigon, a JOD35, is not known to be a cruising boat, having been designed specially for racing, so some modifications had to be made. I obtained a small mainsail with slides about first reef size and fitted an installed Autohelm 5000.

The jib, I decided to keep the headfoil and use the old No 3 and keep it on deck. Since the small main lived in lazy jacks the only sails below were a very small jib and of course a spinnaker. Inez attended to the domestic arrangements and a small cool box was installed to keep the G & T at the right temperature! Stowage places were made for the cutlery and a gadget was made to stow the salt on the engine box to keep it dry, works too.

With the engine serviced, grub, fuel and water aboard we were ready to have a trial run to Whitby on the Humber Cruising Associations Witsun race. Now it had been a week of cold north winds and at the Midnight start it was still blowing quite hard and no warmer. The trek to Whitby and back via an over night stop on return at RYYC was judged to be a great success. Having no form of cuddy or spray hood made the watches a very cold affair even when sitting on the top step of the hatchway. Otherwise the boat was no problem for the two of us and the Autohelm to handle.

Inez suggested a small doghouse. There were convenient bolt-holes in the coachroof so one was constructed from simple materials all found in my garage. With the disposable doghouse fitted we left a week later for Falmouth where Inez has family living.

The voyage to Falmouth was uneventful except for discovering that 6 Gallons of fuel in the full tank is not enough if you have any motoring to do! I will however remember that first beam reach across Lyme Bay when the wind was just right and Pentigon shot along at a steady 9 knots in a calm sea with the sun shining. We completed two 24 hour legs otherwise we day sailed all the way. Stopped in Dartmouth to visit old friends who moved there on retirement a couple of years ago. We found a swinging mooring in Falmouth at the Royal Cornwall Yacht club and left the boat for a couple of weeks to attend to personal things.

The voyage began in earnest at the beginning of July. First we visited the beautiful Helford River then the upper reaches if the Fal where I managed to get biffed by the boom resulting in a few stitches in a cut lip. Finally we managed to get off, timing departure to pick up the tide in the Channel De Four between mainland France and Ouessant. The wind came just right and Pentigon again flew along only to arrive off Le Four lighthouse almost 6 hours early. As the wind fell light in the Chanel De Four the engine pushed us against the tide, fortunately neaps otherwise we would have been stuck for 5 hours. When we arrived off the point St. Matheiu on the outer entrance to Brest the tide turned favourable and we had only been going 18 hours. We decided to press on and with the tide under her Pentigon began to fly again. Through the feared Raz De Sein and turn left for Pt. De Penmarch. Magically the warm sun shone on smooth seas with half a dozen yachts also going our way.

The Glennan Islands were in sight by mid afternoon so there was only one place to stop. I remembered an anchorage off the north of the islands by La Pie isolated danger beacon, and there it was, but now full of moorings. We picked one up and broke out the G & T. The only thing to spoil that magic first evening in France was the nice French boatman collecting the fees for the mooring, in EURO’S we really were in a foreign place!

Next day we explored the beautiful sandy archipelago. Similar to the Scilly isles in miniature, it houses the famous sailing school Centre Nautic de Glenans. A light lunch was consumed ashore with the first wine of the holiday before leaving for Concarneau about 10 miles to the north.

Now Concarneau is, from the water, a walled city. The Marina is just outside the walls and a bit tight to enter. The wonderful crew of a Irish boat rushed out to help us moor. After a beer or two they offered to climb the mast to sort out the Lazy jacks which needed adjusting. That done and a few beers later we left for a splendid meal in the old walled town.

Next day at a civilised hour we left for Belle Ile. a place most have heard of but not many know where. I had been told of a Fjord like anchorage on the west side called Ster Wenn so that's where we headed. Sure enough you enter a bay then suddenly a hidden entrance opens to the south about 200 meters wide. In you go and there is a small but really splendid anchorage. Drop the hook in the middle and take a line ashore. We were assisted by a friendly French yachtsman with a dinghy at the ready. (Next time my dinghy will be ready too.) You feel really isolated just like those remote Scottish Lochs. However we did go ashore by dinghy and found habitation just over the hill. Inez describes it as Lovely, Peaceful and Idyllic with lots of wonderful views.

Next day again at a civilised hour we left for the island of Houat pronounced ‘Wat’. I aimed for a sandy bay on the east of the island ‘Treac’h er Goured’. a lovely wide sandy bay with hundreds anchored there. Kind of gives you confidence to see so many. Took a walk ashore to the little harbour Port St Gildas. a really pretty floral village with good ice cream.

Next we chose Vannes in that magical inland sea, the Morbihan. For the first time since leaving the Raz we had to think about the tides which run like a mill race there. Had to leave before 9 and I had just got relaxed. The Morbihan is confusing to say the least as the channels come so quickly when hidden by a myriad of islands and the boat is driven by those viscous tides. In true chauvinist fashion I said "I'll steer, you Inez can navigate". Now I had been before but could not remember a thing. Inez took the chart and not putting a foot wrong guided me right to Vannes. Marvellous.

Vannes is a medieval city with cathedral and a charming place to explore. Inez spent hours exploring and shopping while I attended to some zzzzz on the boat!

It soon came time to head south if we were to get to La Rochelle. Leaving Vannes just before high water we unwound the islands in the Morbihan and headed south bypassing Ile d’Yeu. I spotted a line of crabpots and dived for the Autohelm button to take avoiding action only to look up as the crabpots flew away! Later whales were spotted, a pod of about half a dozen they kept pace for a while then lost interest and headed west. We stopped at several marinas the only one of note was at Saint-Gilles-Croix-De-Vie where a local fair was in progress with old world roundabouts much to the interest of Inez.

The approach to La Rochelle is called Pertius Breton between the mainland and the Ile-de-Re. After a long day we dropped the hook with others off Ars-en-Re as the weather looked settled and so it was.

I wanted to visit St-Martin-de-Re where I knew of the wet basin in what is left of the fortified town moat. Its locked in so the time has to be right and Inez was not quite ready to leave but tide waits for no man or woman! As we entered St-Martin walled town Inez forgave me for the rushed start. A fantastic place, old world, tidy, charming, busy and typically all the best of French holiday life. It was here I decided that God must have been French. Inez was again fascinated by the place.

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Bastille day was approaching and we had suggested our friends the Willis’s join us to watch the celebratory fireworks from the boat in the town dock at La Rochelle.

After the better part of a day pottering about the town then watching the fireworks, We left and spent a few days off the boat with the Willis’s which recharged our batteries for the trek back to Falmouth where we were to race Falmouth week.

I had watched the pressure falling for a couple of days but still expected to get to Ile-de-Re and anchor in the lee from the now strong westerly. Of course there was wind against tide as we left and while the windserfers revelled in the conditions we did not, so we turned left for Minimes marina which must be the biggest in Europe, its huge. There was some wind in the night and I was secretly pleased we were not at anchor.

However next day was much better and off we went for the Ile-de-Yeu. There was a little French boat ahead, (about 20 ft.) who we were catching fast but the wind fell off and we kept pace for a bit. as the wind fell lighter the Frenchy crammed on more sail and kept going. Of course I only had a small main and no3 jib so could not do much about without resort to the iron topsail at low revs. As the wind fell he crammed on yet more sail and continued at speed. By now I was at max normal revs and still he pulled away! Not until we approached the Ile-de-Yeu and the wind fell away completely did we catch him to find it was a 20 ft. Mini Transat boat. Very impressive!!

The Ile-de-Yeu is a lovely place we hired bikes and circumnavigated it. The sort of place where you could have a smashing family holiday. Not much traffic and everybody seems to have a velo (that's French for a bike). Met a nice Scotsman in Port Joinville the main harbour on the island who knows my niece who lives on Arran, small world.

From Ile-de-Yeu we shot off to that lovely sandy beach anchorage at Houat, then on to Belle Ile main port, La Palais. Here there is a genuine Napolionic Fort which had been besieged by the British (as had many other places on this coast). Again we went through to the wet dock on the tide as the gates opened so we could investigate this fascinating old town. Spent some time in the fort marvelling at the defences. Layed against a wonderful wooden boat Zafaira designed by Fife and built just after the war. The owner spent much time defending it against the less knowledgeable French Cruising yachties.

Left for the Glenans but it got a bit bumpy so settled for Ile de Groix. I have heard others calling it ‘The Grotty Ile’ and so it was. The only place we visited which needs EU help. About on a par with Bridlington.

So we left the Grotty Ile and headed for the Glenans but the wind just would not co-operate so we bore off for Benodet and the lovely river Odet. Met up again with Zafaira and shared some more red wine. After inspecting Benodet and sampling the local fare we decided to sample the delights of Quimper. Now you can make it on the tide but have to take to the mud just short of Quimper. Since my boat has a habit of tipping forward when dried out I decided to take the Verdette regular service. Penn Duick lay to a mooring in the river. Nice place Quimper and well worth the visit.

From Benedet it was round the Raz (hopefully with the tide) and to Camaret-sur-Mer. A school of Dolphins kept company for ages in the bay of Audierne. Camaret is a favourite stopping place on the way to Biscay or to Spain. At first we anchored (for a fee), then went onto a pontoon berth for water, fuel and food as we waited for the wind to go SW and we could sail for Falmouth. When the SW wind came the forecast was for 5 to 6. Off we went and yes it was force 6 but at least on the quarter. One ship came close in the mist as we left the area of Ushant TSS. It was an UECC boat called Asian Breeze. Would not answer my calls on VHF so must have been asleep! Soon after the close encounter a pod of whales swam past only to be soon lost in the waves. It took 13 hours for 120 miles

St Antony light or there abouts. Holed up at the town pontoons to change sails and prepare for Falmouth Race week about which all to be said is that we did not do too well!!

The last stage of the cruise was to Grimsby but there seemed to be plenty of time so we went again up the Fal to the Smugglers Arms which is not a pub but its very similar! Serves food and beer so what more do you want! The problem then is to decide where to stop on the way home. Salcombe seemed good and so it was. Moored to a pontoon up ‘The Bag’ we caught the water taxi to the town. Ate supper in The Ferry where its said that if you sit long enough you will meet every yachtsman in the world.

We now began to realise that if we got a move on we could make Grimsby Regatta. First we simply had to stop at the beautiful Beaulieu River. There to marvel at Bucklers Hard where many of King George’s fleet were built. Its in the heart of the new forest, when there were trees there, but as they cut them down for the ships it became more and more difficult to build and the yard went into decline. It must have been interesting getting Men O War down that narrow twisting river and without power.

Pressing on through the Solent and leaving by the Looe channel to Eastbourne. Its a huge purpose built marina locked in through a dual lock with flotation bollards which make lock work much better than the Grimsby arrangement.

Left early to catch the tide at Dover and just kept going to Lowestoft. Got a telling off by the range guard boat off Dungeness. I had no idea there is a firing range just there. Had a bit of interesting navigation in the Thames estuary. I could see various white, green and red lights ahead but they did not seem to have a pattern. Consulting the chart did not help and when the light turned BLUE it made me think that perhaps it was something else! Suddenly it dawned. It was Friday night at the end of bank holiday week, the end of Burnham race week and they have fireworks:- I know I’ve been. Some good does come from racing after all I claimed to Inez.

A short stop at Lowestoft for fuel and a rest while the tide went in favour then away again this time motor all the way to Grimsby the longest session of the cruise.

So we made it back in the early hours of Grimsby Regatta Sunday morning. Just about two thousand miles of super cruising. The boat had worked well, the only trouble being a bust generator belt and I had a spare. Handling the boat, sails and gear had been no problem for two pensioners with the help of the Autohelm and No. 3 jib.